Prepared for Dyeing

  • June 27, 2011 1:57 pm

Prepared for Dyeing supplies

A few weeks back I made a custom flag from scratch for some dear friends and I really wanted to share a bit of the process here. I had made a similar one in the past for them and was looking forward to a revisit to batik dying after learning a lot the first time around.

First on the list of essential supplies that made this project a success was a couple yards of PFD Kona Cotton (Prepared For Dyeing) which I found at my local Quilt Shop. PFD means that no extra starches or sizers were used to treat the fabric which allows for as much dye to be soaked up as possible.

Above you will see the image I used to trace the design onto the cotton. I reversed the colors of the original file to reduce how much ink would be used by the printer and split it into 4 parts so that it would fit on standard paper. I taped it to the cotton and traced it with a pencil. I wanted mostly the shapes and larger details to use as a guide and was not concerned with drawing on finer details. I also procured a very large hand quilting hoop to stretch the cotton in making it much easier to move around and also keeping it very flat.

Tjanting tool and double boiler for wax

Here you see essential tool #2 – a Tjanting. This I would use to dip into the hot beeswax and then draw with. This clever tool has a wide opening on the top (facing away in the top pic unfortunately) and a fine funnel tip at the end. Check out this video to see a sample of some girls using this tool and also a large wooden stamp being used.

CRAP!

Things were going well – slow but steady, but then in a mindless accident I tipped my tjanting and spilled hot wax all over the middle! AGH! I had to literally put down the tool and walk away I was so upset. No seam ripper would fix this mistake unfortunately.. well, this is why I traced TWO flags to do. It is always good to have a backup plan and I knew I wanted to make 2 anyway incase something happened in the dye bath, but perhaps I jinxed myself. I carried on and finished the little woodgrain lines. That part took the longest, but was probably also the most fun part of the flag to do.

Another oops moment

Here I learned that if you decide to take a break it is best to take your tool OUT of the wax first. The wax must be very very hot in order to penetrate the fibers fully. You can tell the wax is not hot enough when it starts sitting on top of the fabric instead of soaking in. Having the fabric in the hoop made it very easy to flip over and check the back when I was done to touch up any spots.

Dye Bath in the sink

After waxing both flags they went into the sink with some extra strong black dye. I left them in there for at least an hour or so and would stop by and gently stir them around to make sure there wouldn’t be any funny creases in the black. At this point it is important to not bend the wax too much because it will actually crack and allow bits of black dye to seep in. That is a strong characteristic of batik dying, but for this project I did not want much crackling.

Ironing out the wax

Here is another time where I took an easier route than last time. I ironed out all the wax using some old newspaper. I did this outside since the wax fumes can be stinky and bad for you. I did feel a little bad for how much newspaper it took to soak up all that wax, but I have to admit it was ten hundred times easier and faster than trying to boil all the wax out.

Inspection

Here is Kuma looking somewhat unimpressed with my accomplishments.

Finally - A Flag!

Here is the final flag after hemming the sides and adding grommets. I used a fabric screenprinting ink that was slightly watered down to paint in the red bottle and heat seat that with the iron. I also had to touch up that horrible mistake with some black ink, which was still visible but not worth trashing the flag over. My friends absolutely loved their two flags which is what was important in the end and totally worth the time spent sitting next to the hot pot.

I am really looking forward to using my PFD cotton scraps and tjanting tool to dye some fabrics to incorporate into my sewing. The website I linked to earlier Dharma Trading Co has a ton of yummy looking dyes that I am itching to order now! I am also thinking it would be fun to wax some patterned fabric to dye.

March Machine Madness

  • April 14, 2011 1:22 pm

As per usual time is flying by too quickly for me to catch it. March was a really great month so I was hoping to recap some of it here.

It started out innocently enough. I was searching craigslist for sewing machines, as addicts often do, when I came across a beautiful little green Singer that I could not resist. It is not uncommon for me to find an old machine I want, but this one was really calling out to me so I met up with the owner and brought the machine home with me.

Mini Green Singer 185k

Isn’t it cute? It is a Singer 185k with a 3/4 sized body. Not sure if the small size means it is for beginners/kids or just people without much space, but for me the small size means ADORABLE.
So, when I was picking up this little gem the seller mentioned a few online forums that she visits for help on restoring and repairing vintage machines. One in particular, the Texas Roundup group, was going to be having a meeting very soon to swap stories, repair tips and machines! I then found myself joining the group and then driving the hour or so away to meet and greet the other vintage sewing machine enthusiast.

Free Machines

I knew I wasn’t going to BUY anything, but I did not know that I would end up coming home with even more machines! Nobody twisted my arm, but how could I leave beautiful old machines like this behind when the owners were offering them up for free? These are not in perfect working condition, but for the most part would not take much to get up and running and will be great machines for tinkering with. I also took in a machine I had been having problems with, a Pfaff 360 in a case, and got some great tips on getting it working better! It was so worth the drive out to meet this group. I really learn so much more from people face to face than I ever do from hours of researching on my own. I made sure to tell them that and how much I appreciated them too.

Old Singers

Roundup Truck with treadle & friends in the back

I was especially tickled by this man who took every single last orphaned sewing machine and loaded them into his old truck to take home. He says he has a garage FULL of old sewing machines! One woman I met who had brought an interesting hand crank machine from the 1850′s said that she had ~15 treadle (pedal power) machines at home! Phew! I am beginning to feel a bit better about my sewing machine addiction. I guess that is what allowed me to willingly bring home 3 machines that aren’t working. I may have just been tricked by the Devil himself.

Now onto the good stuff. My family this year for my 28th birthday completely blew my mind and bought me the sewing machine I have been drooling over- a Singer Featherweight!!!

Me & my new Featherweight

OH MY GOD! I LOVE THIS MACHINE! This little beauty is my new best friend. Only half the weight of my Singer 201  (14 lbs vs 30 lbs)  and the base folds up and the whole thing fits into the cutest little case for easy transport. Not to mention the machine they bought for me was literally PRISTINE. I have never before seen such a beautiful finish on a Singer. All of the ones I have or have seen before this had been worn down to a matte finish, but this one is shiny as can be!

Singer Procession

Some people have been confused, but this thing will NOT be replacing my other machine, no no no.. this is different. The little featherweight does not have near the power of my other machine, but it is perfect for doing patchwork late at night or for traveling to a sewing class or friends house with. In fact I have already taken it over to Sean’s house and it tickled me completely to finally get to sew over there although it did seem so much louder over there then it did at my place.

Jay McCarroll Habitat fabric & Featherweight

As if that were not enough! My family got me this beautiful amazing gorgeous stack of fabric that I have been wanting since I first laid eyes on it at Quilt Market- It is the newest line designed by Jay McCarroll called Habitat and it is incredible and full of magic. I could go on and on about the designs, the scale of the prints, the colors, etc. OR I could tell you that this fabric just beat out hundreds of other fabric lines in a ‘Modern Fabric March Madness‘ competition that was held on the Fat Quarterly blog. Yes that is right, the votes are literally in and Habitat is the current favorite fabric for modern sewists. Did I call it or what?

Habitat by Jay McCarroll for FreeSpirit Fabrics

I often put my newest or favorite cuts of fabric up on my design walls to ponder and admire as I sew. Usually when people come into my sewing studio their eyes kind of glaze over and I am often found waving fabric around saying hey look at this new fabric! which will be met with an, ‘oh? pretty.’ type response. Well everyone who saw this fabric set up on the wall had to stop and say OMG I LOVE THIS! and then it was ME acting too cool for school, “oh yeah, that? Yeah that is amazing isn’t it?” I can’t wait to cut it all up and sew it all back together and order yards and yards more!

If you are intrigued I encourage you to head on over to Jay’s blog and also read the write up that True Up gave Habitat which linked to a video that Jay made about the line:  Part 1,  Part 2.   If you already love it you will ‘superlove’ it even more after watching them and reading about his design inspiration.

Habitat Pouches

I already have some little taste test Habitat pouches listed in my shop! Check them out if you need a little Habitat in your life.

A lot of love and thanks goes out to Pink Chalk Fabrics as well, which is where my smart family bought this fabric. They said Kathy was super sweet and amazing. I tweeted while at Quilt Market that ‘Any shop that buys the entire Habitat line is my new favorite’ and well, Pink Chalk is definitely on my favorites list now! Pink Chalk really stocks a lot of other amazing fabric too and I love the thought of my fabric coming from a little island on the West Coast.